Sunday, January 22, 2012

All the Lastes Happens and Travels

In the time since I’ve last posted, I have done some pretty cool stuff. Like, for example, last weekend I went Paris to attend a ceremony under the Arc de Triomphe relighting the flame at the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier.

On Friday after school, I got on a train headed for Paris. It’s about two hours from Bourges to Paris by train so I was lucky to have a good book to keep me occupied for the trip. I am not, technically speaking, allowed to travel on my own but my club made an exception for this trip (considering that it was a Rotary member who invited me).

When I arrived at the Paris train station, I was picked up my counselor’s son and his wife. They live in the middle of Paris, and are a music producer and online marketer respectively. They are some of the brightest, friendliest people I’ve ever met- they not only took me in while I was in Paris, they showed me more of that beautiful city than both of my previous trips combined!

After leaving the train station, we dropped my things off at the apartment, which was remarkably well organized considering they had moved in five days ago. (In fact, I got to see their new place even before my counselor and his wife). We went on foot to go get a late bite to eat at a restaurant on their street called the Escargot. While I did not try escargot there, I did have frog legs. It honestly was pretty good and did taste like legs from a very tiny chicken. Frog legs are not really eaten that often in France, considering they are awfully small for being about as good as any other type of meat. But since I’m foreign, I get to try all sorts of interesting different specialties that aren’t usually eaten. We also had some delicious foie gras and a beef entrée. (Cultural note: In France, ‘entrée’ refers to what we call ‘hors d’oeurve’ in English. I have yet to hear any use of the word ‘hors d’oeurve’, despite it’s being a very French sounding word. Here, the main dish is referred to as the ‘plat principal’, which means, very poetically, ‘main dish’.)

After the delicious dinner, we walked back to the apartment and went to bed. I had to be up early to go to the Paris Hôtel de ville or city hall. We walked to the Hôtel de ville, which truly is the best way to get to know a city, I saw so many magnificent buildings and places, that I can’t even name them all (I do remember the Centre Pompidou, which is the Paris museum of modern art with some of the craziest architecture I’ve ever seen. Its eclectic fountain, which is usually surrounded by a crowd, was completely clear of people and easy to admire that early Saturday morning). However, after this weekend, I can actually recognize them for what and where they are.

The ceremony I had been invited to was organized by the Veterans Association of France, which was why it was given enough importance to take place in some really amazing places which are not usually open to the public (like rooms in the Hôtel de ville). The President of the Veterans Association is a member of my Rotary club here in Bourges, though he spends a lot of time working in Paris, and he was the one who invited me to the event. When the couple who was hosting me for the weekend dropped me off, we were all wowed by the magnificent décor on the inside. The outside is impressive enough, complete with an immense ice skating rink in the main square during the winter.

The first ceremony I attended was in honor of about fifteen teenagers who had won a contest for a piece of art which memorialized the veterans who had died in France during the first or second world wars. They were awarded their prizes, and several speaking addressed the crowd, including the General of the French Army.

It was certainly a nice ceremony, though it lasted for about three hours. By that time, I was ready for the lunch which was served right afterwards in an adjacent room. I was seated at a table with several veterans, their wives, and one 15-year-old contest winner. It was, as usual, an absolutely delicious five course meal. Thanks to the formal dinners I’ve attended here, I have become totally adept at knowing which fork to use.

After lunch, I was taken under the wing of the son of the Rotarian who invited me, along with his wife.  A bus took us along with everyone else to Les Invalides, which is another incredible Parisian landmark, made visible by its gilded-gold domed roof. It was built at the time of Napoleon I, as a hospital for the soldier who fought for him. It is still a building dedicated to veterans of France. We attended mass in the chapel of Les Invalides, where this live choir and organ sent chills down my spine.



As we left the mass, I was able to get of picture of some of the dignified veterans in uniform in the courtyard, each holding their own flag.


We then were bussed to the Champs Elysées where we window shopped at Louis Vuitton and got a warm drink at the Café George V. When we saw the tips of flags marking their way through the crowd, we knew it was time to go and join the group for the final ceremony of the night. Following along behind the uniformed veterans, we waked straight down the middle of the Champs Elysées, moving towards the Arc de Triomphe.  For those who don’t know the Arc de Triomphe is surrounded by what is probably the biggest and most frightening roundabout in the entire world, so tourist are usually forced to take an underground route to reach the arch itself. You could tell from the police men stopping traffic and the sound of honking behind us that walking down the middles of the Champs Elysées is not something one gets to do every day.

My always friendly and helpful guides for the day took this picture of me.



As for the ceremony itself it was extremely touching, I was standing just next to the flame when the General of the French army helped the youngest contest winners, a young boy and girl in about 7th grade, to relight the flame. When the flags dropped in memory for the fallen soldiers, my eyes got teary. It was something about the silence in the middle of all the sounds of Paris and the light of the single flame which somehow seemed so far away from the glowing skyline.


On the way the hotel in which the final dinner was being held, the man who sat down next to me on the bus starting talking with me, and I found that he was the mayor of a town not too far from Bourges, Neuvy-sur-barangeon. I was actually just in Neuvy-sur-barangeon and when I told him that I was going to be there next weekend, he invited me to the Ceremonie des voeux on Friday night. This is a ceremony in which the mayor wishes all the citizens the best for the New Year and for 2012. Unfortunately, I was not able to go, but I thought that it was a really exceptional invitation nonetheless.

When we got to the hotel, we were all happy to warm up after having been outside on a fairly bitterly cold day. The dinner was an expansive buffet, which was very good. I got to meet some of the teenagers who had won the contest, and we had fun together. I got some good recommendations as for war memorials and battlefields to visit, as they had all recently been to various sites as a part of the competition.

My counselor’s son came to pick me up after the dinner, which finished around 10:00. My day was not yet over, however! I spent another two hours walking swiftly, haphazardly with him through the streets of central Paris. I saw a huge part of the city by night- the lights along the Seine, the courtyard to the Louvre empty of all visitors. It was really during this was that I started to recognize places that I had already seen before and I gained a whole new perspective to the city. Every corner we turned held something amazing- an average looking castle (yes, this is a place with that many castles and similar buildings) turned out to be the prison where Marie Antoinette was held. Notre Dame, the Paris opera, the Grand Palais…

By the time we finally came home the ankle which I had twisted the week before was starting the hurt again, but I hadn’t even noticed until we got back to the apartment.

The next morning, I wrapped up my ankle, and we set off for a day tour of Montmartre- by scooter. This is a misleading term, because a scooter in France is, though unlike an American motorcycle, far more capable than the electric scooters we imagine. (Those are referred to motos). Having been lent a leather jacket and gloves for wind protection, I also donned a helmet which had a built in walky-talky with its pair, so that my counselor’s son and I could talk while riding. His wife had her own scooter so we all made our way together to Montmartre.

Perhaps it was the lack of traffic on Sunday morning, but I honestly found that riding a scooter with a Parisian at the wheel was far less terrifying than being in a car with non-Parisian trying to navigate traffic. Not to mention that we spent at least half the time we would have in a car, being able to zip through most of the traffic and park on the sidewalk.

Montmartre is a beautiful neighborhood of Paris, and it was a beautiful day. Here, I’ll just put in the pictures I took of the street performers on the steps of the Sacre Coeur (a beautiful basilica overlooking the rest of Paris) and the other sights I saw.


The Sacre Coeur


This Statue was just a statue- until he started moving!

We heard the opera music from far away but didn't know it was these two until we turned a corner. They were very good- the sign said members of the Paris opera


We got lunch with a friend of theirs, who recommended the burger at the restaurant we went to. Now, I have been really pretty good about eating French food while I am here- really taking advantage of the opportunity- but it’s been nearly five months since I’ve had a real burger so I caved in an ordered one. It wasn’t bad- but I do have to say that it wasn’t like a burger from home, either.

That afternoon the scooter tour continued for another hour or so, before stopped at the bakery on the way home. They not only introduced me to Paris, but also to several new and absolutely delicious pastries. After our snack, I got my bags ready and headed to the train station. We said good-bye, I said thank you about as many times as I could, and two hours later I was back home in Bourges.



I don’t have much to say about the week in between; because I’ve got to write about my last weekend before my laptop battery dies.

So yesterday, Saturday, I quite luckily didn’t have any class in the morning. This was a good thing, since with Rugby practice the night before, I didn’t have time to pack again for this weekend.

At noon, I got my stuff together and went to two of my friends’ house for lunch. One of them is a friend from school who will be leaving with Rotary to spend next year in Brazil, and the other is my American friend (also with Rotary) who her family is hosting for the next three months. Their (host) mom drove us to Neuvy-sur-barangeon, the same town I was invited to last weekend, to a large hotel in the Sologne, a nice forested area of our region. There, we met up with all of our friends who are in France from other countries, while the expectant outbound students went to informational meetings and got paperwork done. There were also a good number of French students who had already spent a year abroad, including my friend who was in Peru last year.

I always love meeting up with the other Rotary exchange students, and though our Australian and Argentinian friends had left, we did get to meet one new Argentinian girl in the district (the southern hemisphere’s exchange schedule is different from the northern hemisphere). We treated to a tour of an astronomical research facility which was not too far away from the hotel, a delicious dinner where we met up with all the French students again, and then a dance with a DJ that only finished at 1:30 am. It was honestly an absolutely awesome way to spend time together and to meet all the new people who will be leaving next year.

This morning, we had an early wake-up with breakfast at 8:00, and spent the rest of the morning hanging out/ ironing out paperwork for visas and the Europe bus trips. We left too early at 11:00, when my host mom picked up the three of us who had car pooled together.

I came home, made myself a cup of tea and spend the first afternoon I’ve had in a while relaxing and writing this up. I hope you enjoyed reading it because I certainly had fun doing it!

Sunday, January 8, 2012

The End of the Holiday Season

Finally a moment to write! I’ve settled in with my new family here, but in the free time I have, I try not to spend too much of it on the computer but rather with my host family. Which means that I’m getting a nice break from the Internet but also means that you guys end up with fewer exciting new stories about the strange foods I’ve tried (escargot since that last time I’ve written, which was delicious, and my school cafeteria’s take on chili which was… mysterious. But I still give them props for trying to cook something Mexican, even the French version of American texmex).

I spent the second week of break after Christmas doing practically nothing besides getting to know my new family and relaxing. I managed to make best friends with the family dog, Youpi (French for ‘yippie’, as in the exclamation of excitement). With was done by taking him for a good hour and a half long walk. Of course, I had originally only wanted to find the bus stop, but, it being my second day in the neighborhood the route ended up being longer than intended. I am now able to find the bus stop with ease, which is good because it’s still my main method of transportation to school and home.

My host dad is a fan of the cinema, and my host sister enjoys numerous American TV shows and bands. While I certainly like movies, TV shows and music, these two easily outrank my level of cultural/pop culture knowledge- both French and American. So break was also pleasantly spent by filling in gaps in my education, everything from the Ellen Degeneres show to the band Queen to Robert Redford in The Horse Whisperer. We also bought tickets for Dracula, a French musical which is touring this year, and which I’m very excited about getting to go see.

For New Year’s Eve, I went to Tours with a group of exchange students. Even Dora, my Icelandic friend, came along though she isn’t with the Rotary program. We took the train, dropped our things off and then found a restaurant for dinner where we had the best crepes, both savory and sweet, which I’ve tasted so far. Just look at those empty plates!


By that time it was already fairly late into the evening (we ate around 9:00) and since the streets of the central area of Tours were full of people celebrating the New Year, we stayed out so that we were in one of the main squares when the clock struck midnight. There were no public fireworks, but the city Christmas lights were still up and 12:00 the crowd in the square sent up a cry with accompanied by flying champagne corks and bises (kisses on the cheek) from everyone we were standing next to! This is a picture of us at midnight…


After we made our way back to the apartment we were staying at for the night we got a few hours of sleep before waking up early to catch the train. We had to be sure to take a morning train since the French rail system was right in form, starting 2012 off with a strike at noon.

All in all, the rest of my vacation was nice and relaxing. After all, it’s a tough job to finish all the left-over foie gras, chocolates and Yule logs, but, then again, I’ve always been one to pitch in for the team in times of need. Needless to say, when both school and sports started up again last week, I was more than ready to get moving after the holidays. But it would appear that my eagerness, in conjunction with loss of ankle strength (four months without ballet and I’m beginning to feel it), I sprained my ankle. Three days later and it doesn’t hurt anymore, but it’s still slightly swollen so it looks like I may have to wait a little bit longer to work off than Christmas dinner.

The school week went well. There is a moment of silent solidarity among high school students waiting together for the bus to school in the rain, on the first day of school after a break. A discontented and wet solidarity, it is true, but a solidarity nonetheless.

Yesterday, on Saturday I had class in the morning, as usual. After having lunch at home I met up with a friend at the library of Bourges where we had agreed to meet to do our schoolwork together. We did succeed at being fairly productive and it was incredibly nice to be working with someone again, I always like having someone to bounce ideas off of. It was also nice to spend the afternoon with this friend who is one of my favorite people I have met through school, and since she is also a book lover the library was the perfect place for us to hang out. She also mentioned on our walk back through town an independent/used book store which she would like to show me, which will be an excellent discovery – I have yet to find a favorite bookstore here in town. Though I’m trying to balance my desire for French language books to enjoy back home with the future weight of suitcases…

After coming home I was picked up by the Rotarian family who I have mentioned staying with several times before. They are such wonderful people; I really think of them as yet another family here, so I try to spend time with them whenever I’m free.

We had dinner together, spaghetti bolognaise (everybody loves Italian food, even in France!) and then went bowling together. It seemed late to me to go bowling since we started at 10:00 but it was a lot of fun, and I even won for the first time ever at bowling during the second game.

This morning, their daughter and I went to the pool (and indoor swimming pool, it’s not yet warm enough for outdoors swimming). We had fun swimming, though our laps were more about enjoying the morning at the pool than about working out.

After lunch, they dropped me back off at home in time to start this entry. I had to leave before finishing it because my host family was having over two of my host dad’s brother and their wives to celebrate his 50th birthday. This however, was not a typical birthday party but rather a galette des rois. This is a traditional January celebration in France, traditionally for the epiphany. A galette, a type of large pastry/cake, often with a marzipan filling, is cut in slices and whoever receives the slice with a little figurine baked into it is crowned the king of the evening and is responsible for hosting the next galette of the season. It was a lot of fun, and now that everyone has left, I’m watching Shrek with my host family as I type this. At first it bothered me that the voice actors I was familiar with had been replaced, I later found that all the big English-speaking actors are actually assigned a French voice actor who actually also dubs their work in animated films. And I have to say that it may not be the real Eddie Murphy playing Donkey but the French voice actors is doings a pretty good job of playing him.